Q: Are the steel components hot-dip galvanised?
A: The steel components are e-coated or where possible hot-dip galvanised. This is the process used for most automotive and earth moving equipment underbody parts. Periodic washing will help to remove salt deposits. Occasional DWF ( Castrol ) spraying will help in high corrosive environments. All components are +3mm steel, With the exception of the steel drum which is 2mm. Any corrosion might look unsightly but very unlikely to prevent proper functioning.
Q: Is the mover response fast when given instruction for left or right and front / backwards?
A: The response is instant. Giving instant feedback, to the operator so errors can be corrected quickly. Very accurate positioning is easily achieved. There are only two switches to operate.
Q: How do you unlock the wheel when storing in place were you can't get in to release unit from wheels?
A: It is perfectly ok to leave motors engaged with the tires for short periods of time ie a week or two. The motors apply only about 130kg force. Which is minimal when considering bottom of tire is supporting ½ the weight of the caravan 500-750kg.
Q: What is the guarantee period of this unit and will the guarantee not be void if this is a DIY installation?
A: For record purpose guarantee at least a year, whether DIY or otherwise any part that fails will be repaired or replaced. This excludes damage through circumstances such bolder hopping and potholes etc. The most expensive single component is the motor gearbox. If a replacement is required we will charge a R900 handling fee for, all components are stocked by me in Durban, and can be couriered to most parts of SA within 24 hours, 48 hours to remote parts.
Q: I see there is a lot of messages that the units is noisy. Has this been addressed and how noisy is it?
A: Noise is subjective, how noisy is noisy?? Yes my unit is noisier than the imported units, but then they are dead quiet. The spinoff is that they weigh about 10 kg more and need much larger batteries, which also add weight.
Also it is an advantage having some noise to warn bystanders that the caravan is in motion. Trucks have beepers for this reason. Generally the duration of moves is short so of minimal nuisance.
Q: Is the operation smooth or jerky and how close can one get to the tow hitch without damaging the vehicle.
A: The maximum speed is 5 meters per minute which is not very fast so Soft start only creates a delayed response, as does the soft stop (overshoot). These delays create a degree of positional problems and skilled operation is needed. The drive is via the outer surface of the rubber tyres and as such is relatively ”soft”, so shock is minimal. The up side is the control is extremely positive, with immediate response which allows for very accurate positioning and control. Operating 2 switches is a whole lot easier than 6 to 8 buttons, instant positive feedback informs the operator what is happening, and if a correction is needed an opposite switch movement is all that is needed without the need to look at the control box and to work out from the various options which would be the appropriate next action to try.
Q: What type of battery do you supply with your DIY kits?
A: We supply a 28 Gel type battery - for our manually engaged units, as commonly used in golf cart and an intelligent charger. This is sufficient for the Caravan Mover and a couple of LED lights only. But too small for operation fridges and other high load items. My experience is that the Gel type battery are more efficient than the standard type of deep cycle battery. We recommend that should you wish to purchase a deep cycle battery that it be a minimum of 50AH.
Q:How can I go about servicing the motor gear box after years of usage?
A:Depending on your capabilities it would probably be a good time to open the gearbox, wash it out and replace the grease.
Easiest to jack up caravan and remove wheels. Undo two 8 mm (13 spanner) hinge bolts of Caravan Mover motor unit, hinge down and unclip from pusher bar.
Undo two m6 countersink cap screws that secure the gearbox onto the chassis plate. Most often these should be replaced as they have to be chiselled in the unscrew direction to release them.
On later units these screws are covered with tape in order to prevent the driver hole getting clogged, peel back as necessary.
The motor-gearbox then separates from the roller.
The gearbox end plate can then be removed, 4 x screws, revealing the gears.
Wash out with petrol of turpentine, dry then re-grease, don’t overfill. Reassemble in the reverse order..
Q: Is your unit water proof?
A: We have tried to make our unit as water resistant as possible, through the installation of “O” ring seals ect.. Should water get into the unit through an extended period of being submerged , the unit will not fail for some time. We recommend that you strip down and clean out the motor gearbox when convenient.
Q: I am changing my tires, what do I need to do?
A: When changing tires please ensure that afterward there is a minimum clearance of 10-15mm between the caravan mover roller/drum and the tire. Adjust the Caravan movers if nessecary, by loosening the bracket bolts and sliding the unit.
Q:Why do my fuses blow?
A:Caravan Mover FUSES.
The function of the Caravan Mover is to move the caravan in ideal conditions on hard surfaces, for example driveways and parking areas.
However, the benefits of being able to move one's caravan single handed, motivate use in other situations, where conditions are less than ideal, for example camp sites, and in particular coastal sites which are beautifully grassed, over effectively beach sand.
The limitation in these situations is almost all ways the jockey wheel performance.
The size of the wheel and the weight it supports are the main culprits to contributing to the amount of effort that the Caravan Mover has to provide.
Air conditioners and other loads on the front of the Caravan, tents, gas bottles etc, all add significantly.
If the jockey wheel sinks into the supporting surface, the Caravan Mover WILL NOT MOVE THE CARAVAN happily, maybe it will do this for a short while, but the overload WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE A FUSE TO BLOW, effectively the safety link.
Excessively hard tyres also contribute to the load on the Caravan Mover, which will reduce the moving effort capable by the Caravan Mover. My personal ideal is 2.5 Bars.
If you are experiencing problems on a soft site as envisaged above, get a few people to climb into your caravan and stand in the rear. Not too many to cause an overbalance. In this way, the weight supported by the jockey wheel will be reduced and make the going easier for the Caravan Mover.
The jockey wheel needs to be able to rotate freely to allow "caster action" or rotating to be in line with the required rolling direction.
When turning the caravan, the opposing torque created by the rolling load offered by the jockey wheel is significant, due to the distance that it is from the centre of rotation.
Q:What is the difference between the manually engaged and auto engagement units.
A: The primary difference between our automatic and manually engaged units is as follows:
1. Automatic Unit
• Operates almost silently.
• Engages automatically.
• Relatively new design, ( only 2 years in the feild )so potential design flaws, if any, are yet to be identified.
2. Manually Engaged Unit
• Produces some noise during operation.
• Requires manual engagement.
• Has been field-tested for nearly 13 years, proving its reliability.
• Significantly more affordable, as most of its components are locally manufactured.
Key Considerations:
• The automatic unit may be the only option for caravans with space constraints on the chassis.
• If you don’t mind 5–10 minutes of operational noise, the manually engaged unit is a cost-effective and proven choice.
• If you prefer a quieter, fully automated system, the automatic unit is the ideal solution.